Someone argues: "Linear wave theory shows that a fluid parcel under a passing wave…

PHYSICS · Multi-part · Fermi University Physics · Fluids & Continuum Physics · Waves, acoustics and compressible flow · Waves, acoustics and compressible flow

Signal Speeds in Fluids, Ch Waves of finite height: Stokes waves, shoaling and breaking

Problem

Someone argues: "Linear wave theory shows that a fluid parcel under a passing wave moves in a closed circular or elliptical orbit, returning exactly to its starting point once every period. A cork floating on the surface therefore just bobs up and down and rocks forward and back, with no net displacement over many periods. Any drift of floating debris towards a beach must be caused by the wind or by a current, not by the waves themselves." ((a)) Say what is wrong with this reasoning. ((b)) For a deep-water swell of period T=6.0 sT = 6.0\,\mathrm{s} and amplitude a=0.60 ma = 0.60\,\mathrm{m}, estimate the surface drift speed and the distance a floating cork would be carried by this drift alone in one day.

Browse the problem library